In 1925, when Orchidée Bleue was launched, the world was captivated by the allure of distant lands and exotic treasures, epitomized by lush jungles and rare, vibrant flowers. The name "Orchidée Bleue" evokes a sense of mystery and elegance, perfectly fitting the zeitgeist of the era. Orchids themselves were highly coveted for their beauty and rarity, often symbolizing luxury and refinement.
Blanche Arvoy, the perfumer behind Orchidée Bleue, likely chose this name to evoke the image of a rare and enchanting blue orchid blooming in the depths of an exotic jungle. The term "Orchidée Bleue" suggests something both unusual and captivating, drawing on the fascination with far-flung locales and the exploration of unknown realms prevalent during the early 20th century.
For women of the time period, Orchidée Bleue would have been particularly appealing. It promised to transport them to distant lands through its exotic and daring fragrance notes, resonating with their desire for adventure and a taste of the unknown. The allure of the orchid in perfumery lies in its complex scent profile, which can range from sweet and floral to exotic and sensual, making it a versatile and intriguing ingredient.
The popularity of Orchidée Bleue can be attributed to its association with the mystique of orchids and the allure of the exotic. Perfumes like Orchidée Bleue captured the imagination of women who sought to embody the adventurous spirit of the time, embracing fragrances that mirrored the boldness and mystery of faraway lands. Its classification as a floral fragrance ensured it appealed to feminine tastes while offering a distinctive and memorable olfactory experience.
In summary, Orchidée Bleue by Corday in 1925 was more than just a perfume; it was a reflection of an era enamored with exploration, luxury, and the exotic allure of rare flowers. Its name and fragrance promised women a journey into the depths of lush jungles and the discovery of something truly extraordinary—an experience both thrilling and sophisticated, perfectly in tune with the desires and aspirations of its time.
Orchids, with their mysterious beauty and otherworldly allure, have long been a symbol of luxury and rarefied elegance in perfumery. By the early 20th century, orchids were increasingly sought after as a fragrance note, though their true essence was elusive and difficult to capture. The delicate, creamy floral scent of an orchid is not easily extracted—its essence often residing in the very heart of its petals, where it remains tightly bound in nature’s intricate chemistry. As a result, perfumers of the time sought to replicate its complex floral profile through the use of both natural ingredients and newly discovered synthetic compounds.
In Orchidée Bleue, Corday’s 1925 interpretation of the orchid scent, the perfume draws inspiration from the delicate, often elusive qualities of the flower. The first whiff of Orchidée Bleue brings forth the slightly waxy, sweet brightness of benzyl acetate, a synthetic compound that mimics the mild, almost honeyed sweetness of an orchid’s petals. This is followed by the soft, slightly balsamic depth of phenylacetic aldehyde, a compound that adds a subtle, waxy roundness to the bouquet, evoking the creamy warmth that is so characteristic of orchids. Rhodium, a rare and metallic compound often used in fine perfumes, adds a cool, sophisticated note that helps to elevate the overall composition, giving the fragrance a hint of brilliance that mirrors the orchid’s gleaming, almost translucent qualities. Amyl salicylate further enhances the floral radiance, bringing a sweet, delicate floral nuance that is reminiscent of the orchid’s tender bloom. Methyl anthranilate adds a playful, almost fruity aspect, enhancing the freshness of the floral composition while lending a slight musky undertone, adding depth to the flower’s ethereal qualities.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart of Orchidée Bleue unfurls with the complex, green, and slightly camphorous facets of terpineol, which softens the sweetness of the florals and lends them an almost dewy, fresh quality. The entire composition is infused with a subtle spiciness that recalls the exoticism and richness of the orchid’s natural habitat. The floral bouquet is rounded out with the warm, hay-like scent of coumarin, which adds a comforting, slightly powdery softness. Its sweet, almost vanilla-like quality mirrors the depth and richness of an orchid’s scent, giving the fragrance a soft, enveloping warmth that lingers in the air like the plush petals of the flower itself.
By the time Orchidée Bleue was created, perfumers had learned how to expertly balance natural ingredients with the new synthetics that were emerging, enabling them to capture not just the fragrance of the orchid, but also its elusive, enigmatic beauty. In many ways, Orchidée Bleue embodies the spirit of its time—an era in which perfumery was evolving rapidly, and the boundaries between nature and chemistry were becoming increasingly blurred. While the essence of the orchid remained elusive, perfumers of the time, like Corday, were able to capture its essence through the artful blending of both the natural and the synthetic, creating a fragrance that feels as luxurious and rare as the flower itself.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. As reported in Stage Magazine in 1937: "exotic... exciting... dangerous as the jungles where orchids grow."
- Top notes: benzyl acetate, phenylacetic aldehyde, Italian neroli, Calabrian bergamot, rhodium, amyl salicylate, Sicilian lemon
- Middle notes: French carnation, Dutch orchid, linalol, Manila ylang ylang, Portuguese tuberose, Grasse jasmine absolute, Parma violet, Grasse rose absolute, methyl anthranilate, Russian clary sage
- Base notes: Venezuelan tonka bean, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Siam benzoin, terpineol, coumarin, Tibetan musk, Bohemian oakmoss, balsam of Peru, Indian musk ambrette
Scent Profile:
Orchidée Bleue unfolds with a luminous and refined brilliance, each ingredient contributing its unique voice to a symphony of floral opulence. The first impression is one of radiant citrus, softened by the honeyed embrace of Italian neroli. This neroli, carefully extracted from bitter orange blossoms grown in the sun-drenched orchards of Italy, exudes an airy brightness tinged with a slightly green, waxy nuance. Its delicate sweetness is complemented by the effervescent, slightly spicy sparkle of Calabrian bergamot, a prized citrus from southern Italy known for its unparalleled vibrancy.
Sicilian lemon, tart yet rounded, adds a lively, sun-warmed juiciness, its zest piercing through the initial bouquet like golden rays of light. These sparkling notes rest upon the cool, metallic elegance of rhodium, a rare olfactory material that lends an ethereal, almost futuristic crispness. As the citrus notes settle, amyl salicylate introduces a green-floral freshness, reminiscent of crushed leaves and warm, sunlit petals. This compound, with its faintly balsamic, almost medicinal nuance, acts as a bridge, ushering the fragrance into its heart.
At its core, Orchidée Bleue reveals a lush floral medley, where exotic blossoms intertwine with classic French perfumery staples. The namesake orchid, a delicate Dutch variety, lends a velvety, slightly powdery sweetness with an elusive, almost dewy quality. This is heightened by the creamy, spicy depth of Portuguese tuberose, its intoxicating aroma unfolding with a narcotic richness. The floral heart is further deepened by Grasse jasmine absolute, sourced from the renowned jasmine fields of southern France, where centuries-old harvesting techniques ensure an unparalleled intensity. This jasmine is opulent, indolic, and deeply sensual, harmonizing beautifully with the fresh, honeyed purity of Grasse rose absolute, its petals seeming to glow with an inner warmth.
French carnation, with its clove-like spiciness, sharpens the floral bouquet, adding an unexpected contrast that hints at vintage elegance. Manila ylang-ylang, with its exotic, fruity warmth, lends a golden radiance, evoking the sultry breezes of the Philippines, while Parma violet wraps the bouquet in a soft, powdery embrace, its velvety sweetness adding a whisper of nostalgia. Methyl anthranilate, known for its grape-like fruitiness and green floral lift, threads through the composition, enhancing the violet’s delicate shimmer. Russian clary sage, with its dry herbal warmth and faint tobacco-like facets, adds a grounding depth, tempering the florals with a touch of earthy sophistication.
As the fragrance settles into its base, it takes on a richer, more enigmatic tone, with layers of warmth, wood, and sensuality. Venezuelan tonka bean provides a luscious blend of creamy vanilla and almond-like warmth, its hay-like sweetness melting into the smooth, resinous glow of Siamese benzoin. Mysore sandalwood, revered for its unparalleled creaminess and depth, lends a soft, milky woodiness that envelops the fragrance like a cashmere embrace. Ambergris, sourced from the ocean’s depths, adds an airy, animalic whisper, its salty, sun-kissed warmth enhancing the overall composition’s natural radiance.
Terpineol, with its subtle pine-like freshness, balances the sweeter elements, preventing the fragrance from becoming overly rich. The mossy, inky darkness of Bohemian oakmoss introduces a touch of chypre elegance, its velvety, earthy texture echoing the grandeur of classic French perfumery. Balsam of Peru deepens the base with a warm, resinous sweetness, blending seamlessly with coumarin’s toasted hay-like aroma. Finally, the animalic allure of Tibetan musk and Indian musk ambrette rounds out the fragrance with a sensual, almost skin-like warmth, leaving a lingering, seductive trail that is both refined and irresistibly alluring.
Orchidée Bleue is a masterpiece of contrasts—fresh yet rich, luminous yet deep, vintage yet modern—capturing the untamed beauty of orchids entwined with the grandeur of timeless perfumery.
Bottles:
1937 retail prices:
- Perfume.. $2.75, 12.50 to $17.50
- Eau de Cologne... $1.50, $2.75 and $5.
- Face Powder ...$1
- Lipstick...$1
- Compact double..$5.25
- Dusting Powder..$1.50
The Express Messenger - Volumes 20-22 - Page 17, 1937:
"Out of New York City by airyx on the Thursday before Mother’s Day were shipped by Parfums Corday, Inc., a large perfume distributor, 8735 orchids to dealer representatives in fifty-nine widely scattered cities as gifts to purchasers of a perfume called "Orchidee Bleue." The orchids were packed one each in oval-shaped cellophane boxes and shipped to Corday dealers by Gurney Chrysler, Inc. New York florist. It was reported afterward that every orchid reached ts destination in perfect condition."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.
No comments:
Post a Comment