Toujours Moi by Corday c1923

In 1923, the launch of "Toujours Moi" by Corday represented more than just a new perfume; it encapsulated a historical reverence for the ancient art of incense. During its inception, the name "Toujours Moi," translating to "Always Me" in English, carried profound significance rooted in the enduring allure of precious incense. Originally, the fragrance was inspired by the sacred incense burned exclusively during Easter at the Notre Dame cathedral in France—an aromatic blend steeped in tradition and spirituality. This incense was a composition of frankincense, myrrh, resins, balm, and cinnamon, embellished with genuine gold dust, crafted to create a uniquely sacred ambiance.

Blanche Arvoy, the visionary behind "Toujours Moi," chose this name to evoke a sense of personal identity and timelessness. It speaks to a continuity of self, resonating with the wearer as an expression of everlasting beauty and allure. For women of the early 20th century, drawn to the elegance and sophistication of the Belle Époque, "Toujours Moi" offered a connection to the refined rituals of the past—reminiscent of the incense used in solemn religious ceremonies and grand occasions.

In the realm of perfumery, incense holds a special place. Its rich, evocative aromas have been cherished across cultures and centuries for their transformative power—from religious rites to royal courts and beyond. The adaptation of such revered incense into a perfume like "Toujours Moi" ensured its appeal as a luxurious and exotic fragrance, blending nostalgia with contemporary elegance.

"Toujours Moi" swiftly gained popularity, becoming a coveted scent in both France and the United States by 1924. Its allure lay not only in its historical resonance but also in its ability to transport wearers to a world of opulence and mystique, reminiscent of a bygone era where elegance and sophistication reigned supreme. For women of the time, it offered a way to embody the grace and allure associated with ancient rituals and timeless beauty, encapsulated within a single bottle of perfume.

"Toujours Moi" began its journey as the esteemed incense of choice for the Notre Dame cathedral in France. This fragrant blend held a sacred role, reserved solely for the Easter ceremonies, infusing the cathedral with a distinctive and evocative aroma. Comprising a sophisticated mixture of frankincense, myrrh, resins, balm, and cinnamon, enriched with genuine gold dust, this incense was crafted with meticulous care to create an atmosphere of reverence and spirituality. Its scent wafted through the cathedral's ancient halls, symbolizing centuries of tradition and spiritual significance.

Fast forward to 1923, and the venerable House of Corday seized upon the timeless allure of this sacred incense. Recognizing its potential as a luxurious perfume, Corday translated the essence of the Notre Dame incense into a masterpiece of olfactory artistry. The result was "Toujours Moi," a classic perfume that would come to define the House's legacy as their signature fragrance.

Corday's adaptation retained the essence of the original incense while infusing it with a modern sensibility. "Toujours Moi" exuded a rich blend of exotic notes, capturing the warmth of frankincense, the earthiness of myrrh, the sweetness of balsam, and the spice of cinnamon, all enveloped in a subtle shimmer of gold dust. This fusion of ancient ingredients was expertly balanced to create a fragrance that evoked both sacred rituals and luxurious indulgence.

As Corday introduced "Toujours Moi" to the world, it quickly garnered acclaim for its sophistication and timeless appeal. By embodying the essence of the revered Notre Dame incense, the perfume resonated with a sense of history and cultural richness. It appealed not only to those who appreciated fine fragrances but also to individuals drawn to the mystique of ancient traditions and the elegance of bygone eras. "Toujours Moi" thus became more than a perfume—it became a testament to the enduring allure of sacred aromatics, transformed into a wearable art form that captivated the senses and embodied a legacy of beauty and refinement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Toujours Moi is classified as an oriental fragrance for women, described as an exotic and woodsy. Classical oriental theme, rich, warm and sophisticated based on a combination of exotic sandalwood, musk, cistus labdanum, and vetiver combined with orange blossom and jasmine. The color of Toujours Moi was originally a lovely shade of apple green.

• Top notes: aldehydes, cognac, bergamot, peach, plum, petitgrain, lemon, raspberry, orange blossom, jasmine, almond, thyme
• Middle notes: geranium, cinnamon, clove, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, lavender, lily of the valley, lilac, heliotrope, rose, frankincense, myrrh, honey, carnation, hay
• Base notes: balm, cistus labdanum, patchouli, ambergris, sandalwood, musk, vetiver, benzoin, leather, camphor, tobacco, Tolu balsam, tonka bean, vanilla, oakmoss, castoreum

Scent profile: 

 

In the ancient cathedral, where time seems to stand still amidst moss-covered walls and the kaleidoscope of multicolored stained glass windows, each ingredient of Toujours Moi weaves a tale enriched by the essence of incense, resin, and balm.

The aldehydes shimmer delicately as they mingle with the citrusy brightness of bergamot and lemon, their crispness reminiscent of the sunlight filtering through the stained glass. Beneath this initial greeting, the warm embrace of petitgrain and thyme evokes the priest’s herbal garden, where aromatic lavender and myrrh thrive amidst the ancient stones.

Approaching the altar adorned with orange blossom and jasmine, their floral sweetness intertwines with the profound aroma of frankincense and myrrh rising from the thurible. The air is thick with sacred smoke, blending seamlessly with the deep, resinous notes of sandalwood and ambergris, imbuing the sanctuary with a mystical aura.

In the priest’s chambers, a bowl of plums and peaches adds a luscious fruity note to the atmosphere, complemented by the comforting scent of vanilla and tonka bean, reminiscent of spiced almond cookies left as offerings. The flickering candles emit honey and beeswax, their golden warmth infusing the air with a serene tranquility.

Underlying it all, the polished wood pews exude a grounding blend of vetiver, patchouli, and musk, their earthy tones resonating with the ancient solemnity of the cathedral. From a hidden drawer, tobacco and leather add a contemplative touch, a reminder of hidden depths within the sanctuary walls.

Amidst this sensory tapestry, the priest’s pet cat moves silently, its animalic presence a reminder of the untamed amidst the sacred. Each inhalation reveals another layer of complexity, where the fragrance of resin, balm, and incense intertwine with the earthly and divine elements of Toujours Moi.

In the heart of this ancient sanctuary, where the scent of history merges with the warmth of devotion, Toujours Moi unfolds as a rich, warm, and sophisticated fragrance—a timeless essence captured in the hues of apple green, resonating through the ages.

L'Atlantique, 1952:

"Thirty years as a top-selling perfume is the record behind Corday's 'Toujours Moi'; to celebrate such fame a sister perfume was brought out last summer, 'Toujours Toi'. The row of Corday bottles on the dressing table must also include 'Fame', a light perfume, if one is blond, or 'Tzigane', a spicy scent for brunettes. 'Jet' is discreet enough for all complexions."

In 1973, Toujours Moi was available in the following products:

• 1/8 oz Purse Perfume
• 1/4 oz Perfume
• 1/2 oz Perfume
• 3 oz Perfume Spray
• 2 oz Eau de Toilette
• 4 oz Eau de Toilette
• 2.5 oz Spraygrance Cologne
• 2.5 oz Pure Spray Cologne
• 4 oz Bath Powder
• 2 oz Oil for the Bath

Bottles:

 

During the early 20th century, a wave of artistic creativity swept through the world of perfume design, epitomized by luminaries such as Rene Lalique and Julien Viard. Among them was Lucien Gaillard, a celebrated jeweler from Paris whose friendship with Lalique proved pivotal. Gaillard, known for his intricate designs, was encouraged by Lalique to return to jewelry, a field they both adorned with their distinctive styles.

Gaillard's masterpiece, the Toujours Moi perfume bottle, stands as a testament to Art Nouveau elegance. The bottle itself is a canvas, adorned with delicately rendered money plants that flow sinuously down its surface, embodying the organic motifs typical of the Art Nouveau movement. Later editions of the bottle featured lavish gilding over these motifs, elevating their allure.

Noteworthy is the stopper of the initial Toujours Moi bottle—an unconventional design boasting four tall lobes intricately molded with geometric patterns. These early bottles lacked the gilded embellishments but sported labels of embossed gold paper, adding to their ornate charm. Some bear what appears to be Lalique's signature on their bases, though suspicions linger about their authenticity, potentially added by dishonest dealers in later years.

Charles J Oppenheim Jr. filed a patent for the Toujours Moi bottle in 1925, underscoring its innovative design. Each bottle was meticulously housed in presentation boxes swathed in embossed paper mimicking reptile skin, internally lined with soft beige velveteen, ensuring the perfume was as much a tactile pleasure as a fragrant one. This blend of craftsmanship and artistry transformed perfume packaging into objets d'art, reflecting the flourishing creativity of the era.

Bottles: 

• bottle stands 3.5" tall

Around 1925, the Toujours Moi perfume bottle underwent a significant redesign. The original stopper, characterized by its four lobes and geometric patterns, was replaced with an octagonal stopper featuring four panels of frosted glass molded into circular motifs. This update added a new dimension of sophistication to the bottle's aesthetic, blending Art Nouveau sensibilities with a more modern, geometric flair characteristic of the Art Deco period.

Accompanying this change were updates to the bottle's labeling. The paper labels were now adorned with gilded metallic foiling, enhancing their visual appeal and aligning them with contemporary design trends of the time. Another notable enhancement was the application of an orange-red patina to both the money plant motifs adorning the bottle and the new stoppers, adding a touch of color and depth to the design.

Variations in stoppers also emerged during this period. Some bottles featured glass stoppers, maintaining a sense of luxury and craftsmanship, while others opted for practicality with off-white plastic screw caps. The latter were likely crafted from galalith, a material popular in the early 20th century for its resemblance to natural materials like ivory, providing a durable and attractive alternative to glass.

This updated bottle design served both the parfum and eau de cologne versions of Toujours Moi until the 1950s, showcasing its enduring appeal and adaptability across different formulations. Its evolution reflects not only changes in fashion and taste but also a commitment to marrying artistic elegance with functional design in the realm of perfume packaging.

Parfum Bottles:

• 1/8 oz (1 dram) - mini size bottle stands 1.75" tall.
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 2" tall (with plastic screw cap)
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 2.25" tall.
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 2.87" tall.
• 1 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall.
• 1 1/3 oz bottle stands 4" tall.
• 1 2/3 oz bottle stands 4.25" tall.
• 2 oz bottle stands 

glass stoppers:

• bottle stands 2.5" tall
• bottle stands 3.37

Eau de Toilette:

• 2 oz
• 4 oz
• 8 oz

Eau de Cologne Bottles:

• 2.5 oz bottle stands 4.5" tall.
• 4 oz bottle stands 5.5" tall.
• 8 oz bottle stands 6.25" tall.

Drug and Cosmetics Industry, 1938:

"Corday is introducing new sizes in Toujours Moi Eau de Cologne. Three sizes are now available, 2 ½ oz, 4 oz, and 8 oz. The flask is a lovely duplicate of the perfume bottle and the Cologne has a delightfully refreshing fragrance."

c1942 ad

In the 1950s, the iconic Toujours Moi bottle underwent a subtle yet striking transformation that refreshed its timeless elegance. Central to this update was the enhancement of the money plant motifs adorning the bottle, which were now embellished with a lavish application of thick enamel gilding. This gilding not only accentuated the sinuous Art Nouveau-inspired design but also imparted a richer, more opulent appearance to the bottle.

Simultaneously, the glass stopper received a graceful redesign, featuring a flared silhouette that harmonized beautifully with the bottle's renewed aesthetic. What made this iteration particularly captivating was the addition of a matching gilded money plant motif on the stopper itself, creating a seamless visual continuity from bottle to stopper.

Practical considerations were also addressed with this update. The Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette versions of Toujours Moi now sported practical plastic screw caps, offering convenience without compromising the bottle's sophisticated appeal. These caps, likely crafted from durable materials like galalith, mirrored the color scheme and design ethos of the bottle and stopper, ensuring a cohesive and elegant presentation.

Manufactured with meticulous craftsmanship by Pochet et du Courval in France, renowned for their expertise in glassmaking and perfume bottle production, each Toujours Moi bottle from this era embodied a fusion of artistic excellence and functional design. This period marked not just an update in aesthetics but a continuation of the bottle's legacy as a symbol of luxury and refinement, appealing to connoisseurs of both perfume and fine craftsmanship alike.

Parfum Bottles:

• 1/4 oz bottle with screw cap stands 2.25" tall
• 1/4 oz bottle with glass stopper stands 2.37" tall.
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 3" tall.
• 1 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall
• 1 oz bottle with plastic screw cap stands 3.75" tall.
• 2 oz bottle with plastic screw cap stands 4.25" tall.
• stands 5.12" tall
• stands 6.5' tall
• Factice bottle stands 8.5" tall

Cologne Bottles:

• 2.5 oz bottle (with screwcap).
• 4 oz bottle stands 5" tall (with screwcap).
• 8 oz bottle stands 6.5" tall.

Eau de Toilette Bottles:

• 1 oz bottle stands 2.5" tall (with screwcap).
• 8 oz bottle stands 6.5" tall.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In the early 1960s, Max Factor acquired Corday, a move that heralded a new chapter for iconic perfumes like Toujours Moi and Toujours Toi, as well as others such as Fame. This acquisition was part of a strategic effort by Max Factor to rejuvenate and reintroduce these beloved fragrances to the market. The original Corday version of Toujours Moi was discontinued in 1961, marking the transition to Max Factor's stewardship of these classic scents.

By 1967, Max Factor had successfully relaunched Corday's renowned perfumes, including Toujours Moi, under the Corday brand name, leveraging its established reputation for quality and sophistication. Newspaper advertisements from this period highlighted Toujours Moi as a "mossy blend, subtly unforgettable," emphasizing its enduring allure and timeless appeal. This relaunched version aimed to retain the essence of the original Corday creation while infusing it with a refreshed vibrancy and depth to suit modern tastes.

The Max Factor rendition of Toujours Moi, post-acquisition, remained faithful to its predecessor but introduced noticeable enhancements. Described as more uplifting, deeper, spicier, and smoother, the fragrance exuded a richer complexity, accompanied by a lighter hue that reflected its refined composition. These adjustments aimed to appeal to contemporary tastes while preserving the essence that made Toujours Moi a beloved classic.

However, the evolution of Toujours Moi took an unexpected turn with Dana's reissue in 1995. This version diverged significantly from its predecessors, eliciting disappointment among longtime fans. Critics noted its cheapened and synthetic scent profile, characterized by harsh, acidic notes and a murky appearance, starkly contrasting with the elegance and sophistication of earlier formulations. Despite initial concerns, some users found that after the top notes dissipated, the perfume's drydown revealed a spicy, deep woodsiness, offering a redeeming quality amidst mixed reviews.

The saga of Toujours Moi from Max Factor's acquisition to Dana's reinterpretation underscores the challenges and complexities of preserving a perfume's legacy while adapting to changing consumer preferences and market dynamics. Each iteration reflects not just shifts in formulation and branding but also the enduring quest to capture the essence of timeless elegance in a bottle.

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