In the early 20th century, particularly around the time when "Voyage à Paris" by Corday was launched in 1932, luxury liner travel symbolized the pinnacle of elegance and sophistication. Trans-Atlantic voyages were not just journeys but lavish experiences, especially for those traveling to Paris. These voyages were not merely about reaching a destination but were events in themselves, often associated with acquiring the latest fashions from France's leading designers.
Luxury liners like the Île de France, launched in 1927 by the French Line, and the Europa and Bremen, launched in 1928 by the Germans, epitomized this era. The Île de France was celebrated for its luxurious accommodations and elegance, catering to affluent passengers who enjoyed the finest in service and style. The Europa and Bremen were notable for their speed and modern design, making them popular choices among travelers seeking efficient and comfortable crossings. The SS Normandie, launched in 1932, continued this tradition of opulence and sophistication, setting new standards in luxury travel.
The phrase "Voyage à Paris" evokes a sense of glamour, adventure, and exclusivity. It suggests a journey to the heart of fashion and culture, to a city synonymous with haute couture and luxury. For a perfume, "Voyage à Paris" is an evocative name because it captures the essence of sophistication and elegance associated with Parisian style.
Blanche Arvoy likely chose to name her perfume "Voyage à Paris" to evoke these very sentiments. By associating her fragrance with the idea of a voyage to Paris, she positioned it as a luxury item that embodies the essence of Parisian chic. The name suggests that wearing this perfume transports one to the world of high fashion and elegance that Paris represents.
Women of the time would likely respond positively to such a perfume. It would appeal to their desire for sophistication and the allure of Parisian style. The name itself conjures images of Parisian boulevards, fashionable boutiques, and the artistry of French perfumery, resonating deeply with the aspirations and dreams of many women of that era.
"Voyage à Paris" not only encapsulates the allure of luxury liner travel and trans-Atlantic journeys but also embodies the glamour and romance associated with Paris during the early 20th century. It conjures feelings of excitement, sophistication, and the promise of indulging in the finest fashion and fragrance. In essence, it perfectly resonates with the opulent spirit of the time period and the aspirations of those who sought to experience Parisian elegance firsthand
Esquire, 1935:"Men who know Women know Corday . . . they know without being told that every woman's heart quickens at the thought of Voyage a Paris — the perfume favored by the Parisienne ...$15 the bottle."
The Pittsburgh Press - Dec 21, 1937:
"Gift Perfumes Say, romantically yours -VOYAGE A PARIS. Corday translates the charm of the gayest city in the world - the thrill of beautifully gowned women. $2.28 to $18.00."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a heady floral ambery fragrance for women. It begins with sharp aldehydes and bright citrus zest, followed by a rosy floral heart punctuated with exotic dry spices, resting on a woodsy base with traces of balsamic notes of vanilla and benzoin, with a drydown of precious sandalwood and cedar.
- Top notes: aldehydes, citrus (lemon, bergamot, orange, lime), neroli
- Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, honey, clove, coriander, nutmeg
- Base notes: ambergris, musk, labdanum, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean, storax, benzoin, patchouli, vetiver, cedar
Having a bottle of Voyage à Paris parfum allows for a sensory journey into a fragrance rich with intricate notes, prominently featuring the delicate "mellis accord." This accord, believed to be constructed around the distinctive Melysflor base from Firmenich, shares similarities with Givaudan's renowned Melittis accord.
The composition of these "mellis accords" typically includes benzyl salicylate, which lends a soft, sweet floral character, complemented by the earthy depth of patchouli. Spicy nuances, contributed by eugenol derived from cloves, add a subtle warmth and complexity to the fragrance profile. Lily of the valley notes, traditionally sourced from hydroxycitronellal, impart a fresh, green aspect reminiscent of springtime blooms. Additionally, hints of cinnamon and woody undertones enhance the overall richness, while coumarin, extracted from tonka beans, introduces a sweet, balsamic note that rounds out the fragrance with a comforting warmth.
Melysflor, the foundational base of Voyage à Paris, also finds its signature in other notable perfumes of the era, such as Jean Patou's Moment Suprême, Lucien Lelong's Mon Image, Elizabeth Arden's Blue Grass, and Dana's iconic Tabu. This shared presence among these renowned fragrances underscores the esteemed pedigree and enduring allure of Melysflor within the realm of perfumery.
Encountering the "mellis accord" in Voyage à Paris is akin to discovering a harmonious symphony of floral, spicy, and woody notes, meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication. It reflects the artistry of perfumery during its era, where each element is carefully chosen to create a fragrance that captivates and endures, resonating with those who appreciate the finer nuances of scent and the evocative power of fragrance.
Stage, 1937:
"No "museum" piece is this new triumph by CORDAY. Voyage a Paris is the perfume for women who live with a lilt to the hilt for today — heedless of yesterday — and with a "Nichevo" for tomorrow! For this is a "heady" perfume — reckless ---with a superb subtlety and a teasing, tantalizing bouquet - a new thrill for Eros and a new pipe for Pan! The magic substance of which glamour is made!"
Scent Profile:
As the luxurious liner, adorned with gleaming brass and polished wood, glides across the Atlantic, the first whiff of "Voyage à Paris" brings a rush of sharp aldehydes tinged with the bright zest of citrus. The aldehydes sparkle like the champagne flutes clinking in the grand ballroom, their effervescence capturing the excitement of a journey to the heart of elegance.
Arriving in Paris, the air is infused with the bustling energy of the boulevards. Strolling past haute couture houses, the scent evolves into a blooming floral heart. Roses in full bloom line the avenues, their petals releasing a sweet, intoxicating aroma that mingles with the heady jasmine weaving through the air. The fragrance of carnations adds a spicy warmth, reminiscent of the rich textures of velvet gowns adorning mannequins in the windows.
Entering a modern salon of a leading fashion designer, the atmosphere shifts with the exotic dry spices woven into "Voyage à Paris." Honeyed notes and the subtle sweetness of clove and nutmeg envelop the senses, hinting at the opulent fabrics and intricate embroidery adorning the latest creations on display. Each detail, from the plush fabrics to the fine stitching, is a testament to Parisian craftsmanship and artistry.
Descending into the woodsy base notes, the scent takes on a deeper, more sensual allure. Balsamic tones of vanilla and benzoin evoke the rich, luxurious textures of plush velvet drapes cascading around ornate furniture. The drydown of precious sandalwood and cedar brings a sense of grounding and sophistication, akin to the polished wood paneling lining the salon's interior.
Throughout this olfactory journey, "Voyage à Paris" conjures a symphony of sensations. The air is filled with the murmurs of excited patrons and the rustle of silk skirts brushing against marble floors. The taste of macarons and petit fours lingers delicately on the palate, complementing the fragrance's sweet undertones. To touch, the smoothness of silk and the softness of cashmere scarves mirror the perfume's luxurious essence, leaving a lasting impression of timeless elegance and Parisian allure.
Bottles:
The deluxe parfum bottles crafted by Baccarat for "Voyage à Paris" represent the epitome of luxury and elegance. Baccarat, renowned for its exquisite crystal craftsmanship, ensured that each bottle was a work of art in itself. The parfum bottles varied in size, each meticulously designed to complement the precious fragrance they contained.
At the center of the photograph, the flagship parfum bottle stands at an impressive 4.75 inches tall. This size not only showcases the grandeur of the perfume but also highlights the intricate detailing of the Baccarat crystal, possibly adorned with intricate designs or etchings that reflect the sophistication of the era.
Next to it, a slightly smaller bottle with a striking black stopper stands at 3.75 inches tall. The contrast between the crystal and the dark stopper adds a touch of drama and elegance, further enhancing the allure of the perfume.
For those seeking a more portable size, there is a 1/4 oz bottle standing 2.25 inches tall. This size would have been ideal for travel or for keeping close at hand throughout the day. Its ground glass stopper, topped with a dauber, suggests ease of application while maintaining the luxurious feel synonymous with Baccarat craftsmanship.
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Finally, the smallest size offered, holding 1 dram (equivalent to 1/8 oz), stands at a delicate 1.75 inches tall. Despite its diminutive size, this bottle would have still exuded luxury and charm, perfect for those who preferred a more discreet yet equally refined option.
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These bottles not only housed a prestigious fragrance but also embodied the artistry and craftsmanship of Baccarat, aligning perfectly with the opulent spirit of the early 20th century. They were more than mere containers; they were symbols of status and refinement, catering to the tastes of discerning clientele who appreciated both beauty and quality in their possessions. The sizes offered catered to various needs and preferences, ensuring that "Voyage à Paris" by Corday could accompany its wearer on any journey, whether a grand trans-Atlantic voyage or a daily excursion into the world of fashion and luxury.
The Eau de Cologne bottle for "Voyage à Paris" represents a distinct departure in design from its parfum counterparts, yet maintains a unique charm and elegance of its own. Unlike the Baccarat-made parfum bottles, this bottle stands 5 inches tall and features a striking modified design that sets it apart.
Its unusual stepped oblong shape evokes a sense of modernity and sophistication, reflecting the evolving tastes of the era. The elongated neck adds to its graceful silhouette, while the spiral-shaped disk ground glass stopper not only secures the fragrance but also serves as a decorative element, enhancing its overall aesthetic appeal.
The base dimensions, measuring approximately 3.25 inches long by 2.875 inches wide, provide a stable foundation for the bottle, ensuring it stands securely while also contributing to its visual balance
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While this bottle was not crafted by Baccarat like its parfum counterparts, its design still embodies a commitment to quality and style. The choice of such a distinctive shape and stopper highlights a deliberate effort to differentiate the Eau de Cologne presentation while maintaining a cohesive brand identity with "Voyage à Paris."
Overall, this Eau de Cologne bottle not only complements the luxurious essence of the perfume but also showcases a thoughtful blend of innovation and tradition in its design. It stands as a testament to the allure of French perfumery and craftsmanship during the early 20th century, offering a glimpse into the refined tastes and aspirations of those who sought to experience the elegance of Paris through scent.
Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 41, 1937:
"CORDAY Corday has created an eau de Cologne to match the "Voyage a Paris" perfume. It has the same heady, exciting fragrance, remarkably strong and lasting. Its bottle is a replica of the perfume flask, but turned on its side and given a long neck."
Fate of the Fragrance:
The discontinuation of "Voyage à Paris" perfume, its exact date unknown, marks a poignant transition during a period overshadowed by wartime challenges. Despite the upheaval of global conflict, this luxurious fragrance continued to be available for purchase as late as 1941, reflecting its enduring popularity and the resilience of its brand identity amidst turbulent times.
In the context of wartime, consumer goods often faced production constraints and shifting priorities as resources were diverted to support military efforts. The fact that "Voyage à Paris" remained on the market in 1941 suggests a commitment to maintaining normalcy and catering to the desires of consumers who sought a semblance of elegance and indulgence amid the uncertainties of war.
For many, perfumes like "Voyage à Paris" represented more than just a fragrance; they embodied a sense of sophistication and escape from the grim realities of wartime existence. The continued availability of such luxuries offered a brief respite, allowing individuals to hold onto familiar comforts and traditions amidst the broader disruptions of daily life.
Moreover, the decision to keep selling "Voyage à Paris" during this period underscores its enduring appeal and the efforts of its makers to sustain their brand through challenging circumstances. It speaks to the resilience of luxury goods industries and their determination to adapt to changing economic and social landscapes, even amidst the turmoil of war.
In conclusion, while the exact reasons for its discontinuation remain unclear, the fact that "Voyage à Paris" was still being sold in 1941 serves as a testament to its enduring popularity and the enduring allure of luxury and elegance, even in times of global conflict.
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