Corday & Jovoy Perfumes: Le Jasmin by Corday c1931

The launch of Le Jasmin de Corday in 1931 occurred during a period marked by a nostalgic return to simpler, more refined tastes in perfume, reminiscent of the Victorian era. This era saw a resurgence of interest in soliflore perfumes, which focus on single floral notes, embodying a sense of purity and elegance. Perfumes like Le Jasmin aimed to capture the essence of a specific flower, in this case, jasmine, renowned for its intoxicating scent and association with femininity and sensuality.

"Jasmin" is an ideal name for a perfume during this time for several reasons. Firstly, jasmine has a rich cultural symbolism, often representing beauty, grace, and romance. Naming a perfume "Jasmin" immediately evokes imagery of lush gardens, warm evenings, and the delicate yet potent fragrance of jasmine blossoms. Women of the 1930s would likely resonate deeply with a perfume named "Jasmin" due to its classical appeal and the intrinsic allure associated with jasmine itself.

For women of that era, "Jasmin" would represent more than just a fragrance; it would evoke a sense of sophistication and femininity. The perfume would likely be received with enthusiasm, offering wearers a connection to nature and a timeless elegance that transcends passing trends. The name "Jasmin" suggests a purity and simplicity that would appeal to those seeking understated yet captivating scents.

The word "Jasmin" conjures images of moonlit gardens, blooming flowers under starry skies, and the soft, heady aroma that jasmine emits after dusk. Emotionally, it evokes a sense of romance, allure, and a touch of exoticism, transporting wearers to a world of refined luxury and natural beauty.

In the context of the perfume industry of its time, "Jasmin" would indeed be a unique and evocative name. While many perfumes focused on complex blends and exotic ingredients, a perfume simply named "Jasmin" would stand out for its direct homage to a single, beloved flower. It would be interpreted as a classic choice, celebrating the timeless appeal and intoxicating fragrance of jasmine in its purest form.

Jasmine, with its intoxicatingly rich and heady scent, has been a cornerstone of perfumery for centuries. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, jasmine-based fragrances were highly sought after, celebrated for their sensuality, warmth, and floral opulence. Perfume formulas of the time often relied on natural extractions, including enfleurage, tinctures, and absolutes, to capture the delicate yet powerful essence of the jasmine flower. These formulations frequently appeared in perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias, indicating the widespread appreciation and demand for the scent. Traditionally, jasmine perfumes were not composed of a single floral note but were blended into complex bouquets, often enriched with deep, animalic undertones derived from natural musks, civet, or ambergris to enhance the flower’s natural warmth and longevity.

Recognizing the enduring appeal of jasmine, Corday introduced an updated version of the fragrance in 1931, modernizing the classic floral profile for contemporary tastes. By the early 20th century, advances in chemistry had revolutionized perfumery, allowing for the creation of new, innovative compositions. While early jasmine perfumes were primarily built upon natural raw materials, the late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the introduction of synthetic aroma chemicals that expanded the perfumer’s palette. These new compounds, such as benzyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, farnesol, and methyl nonylacetaldehyde, allowed perfumers to enhance and extend the complexity of jasmine fragrances while improving their stability and sillage. These synthetics helped recreate the radiant freshness of jasmine while offering cost-effective and long-lasting alternatives to natural absolutes, which were often expensive and labor-intensive to produce.

Corday’s 1931 reinterpretation of Jasmine was likely a refined balance of natural extractions and synthetics, ensuring a perfume that maintained the lush floral character of its predecessors while offering a more modern, wearable composition. This new version would have appealed to women who desired a timeless yet updated scent—one that carried the romanticism of traditional jasmine perfumes but with a contemporary elegance suited for the dynamic fashion and beauty trends of the 1930s. Whether worn in the form of a concentrated parfum or a lighter toilette, Corday’s Jasmine would have continued the legacy of this beloved floral note, bridging the gap between the historic richness of 19th-century jasmine perfumes and the evolving innovations of the 20th century.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a heady white floral fragrance for women.

Top notes: Moroccan cassie, Italian neroli, benzyl acetate, linalol, linalyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, "floralnol"
Middle notes: "indol", Egyptian jasmine absolute, Tunisian orange blossom, Florentine orris, farnesol, methyl nonylacetaldehyde
Base notes: Abyssinian civet, Indian musk ambrette, ambergris, Colombian tolu balsam, Siamese benzoin, Tibetan musk, styrolyl alcohol, Peru balsam, Himalayan costus

Scent Profile:

Le Jasmin by Corday unfolds like a richly woven tapestry of white florals and exotic resins, each note revealing a new facet of its opulent composition. The fragrance opens with a luminous burst of Moroccan cassie, its scent a mingling of mimosa-like powdery sweetness and honeyed warmth, laced with a hint of green spice. This is joined by the refined radiance of Italian neroli, extracted from the delicate orange blossoms of Calabria. Its citrusy brightness carries a touch of bitter elegance, setting the stage for the interplay between natural florals and masterfully crafted aroma chemicals.

Benzyl acetate, a key component of jasmine’s natural aroma, imbues the fragrance with a fruit-kissed sweetness, while linalool and linalyl acetate contribute a smooth, slightly herbal freshness, tempering the composition’s floral intensity. The presence of methyl anthranilate adds an intriguing depth—its soft, grape-like sweetness reminiscent of orange blossom at dusk. "Floralnol," a modern synthetic floral note, enhances the bouquet, lending a crystalline clarity to the top notes, as if the petals had been kissed by the morning dew.

As the fragrance deepens, Egyptian jasmine absolute emerges in full bloom, enveloping the senses in its rich, narcotic intensity. This is jasmine at its most hypnotic—deeply sensual, slightly indolic, with an almost animalic warmth that lingers like silk against the skin. Indol, a natural component found in jasmine, contributes a sultry, almost intoxicating dimension, hinting at the flower’s nocturnal sensuality. Tunisian orange blossom adds a luminous counterpoint, its honeyed sweetness and soft floral nuances brightening the composition.

The fragrance takes on an earthy, almost buttery quality with Florentine orris, prized for its velvety smooth texture and powdery, violet-like warmth. This luxurious note, harvested from the rhizomes of iris plants aged for several years, provides a sense of refinement and softness. Farnesol, with its soft, rosy undertones, bridges the floral heart with the deeper, more complex elements of the fragrance. Methyl nonylacetaldehyde introduces a green, slightly aldehydic crispness, preventing the floral heart from becoming overly sweet or cloying.

The base of Le Jasmin is a sumptuous blend of rare animalics and balsamic resins, grounding the fragrance in a sensuous embrace. Abyssinian civet lends an unmistakable warmth—an almost primal, musky depth that intensifies the jasmine’s natural sensuality. Indian musk ambrette, derived from plant seeds yet carrying a distinctly animalic aroma, contributes a rich, slightly powdery warmth that clings to the skin. Ambergris, rare and highly prized, adds a subtle oceanic salinity, an almost mineral-like radiance that enhances the longevity of the composition.

The resins—Colombian tolu balsam, Siamese benzoin, and Peru balsam—infuse the fragrance with a caramelized richness, their balsamic sweetness complementing the floral notes with a golden, almost incense-like warmth. Tibetan musk and Himalayan costus bring the fragrance to its final crescendo, their deep, earthy, and slightly smoky undertones reminiscent of antique wooden chests and rare, exotic spices. Styrolyl alcohol, with its faintly spicy, floral-woody facets, ties the elements together, ensuring that Le Jasmin unfolds as a seamless, luxurious experience.

Each ingredient in Le Jasmin serves a purpose, creating a fragrance that is both timeless and profoundly evocative. It is a scent that captures the duality of jasmine—its luminous, innocent beauty by day and its deep, smoldering allure by night—set against a backdrop of the world’s most exquisite materials.