"Les Lilas de Corday," launched in 1931, emerged during a fascinating period in perfume history, characterized by a resurgence of interest in simpler, more singular floral fragrances reminiscent of the Victorian era. This era marked a return to soliflore perfumes, which focus on showcasing the scent of a single flower, echoing the elegance and refinement associated with the past.
The name "Les Lilas," meaning "The Lilacs" in French, would make a perfect choice for a perfume in this context. Lilacs, with their delicate, sweet fragrance, are symbolic of springtime and renewal. For women of the early 20th century, a perfume called "Les Lilas" would evoke images of blooming gardens, romantic walks in the countryside, and the innocence and femininity associated with flowers. It would resonate deeply with their desire for elegance and nostalgia for simpler times, aligning perfectly with the cultural sentiments of the era.
Women of this time period would likely respond positively to a perfume named "Les Lilas." The name itself suggests a fragrance that is floral, fresh, and evocative of nature's beauty. It would appeal to their desire for refined and classic scents that complemented their elegant attire and sophisticated lifestyles. The emotions stirred by "Les Lilas" would be those of joy, nostalgia, and a connection to the natural world.
The name "Les Lilas" is indeed unique and evocative. It stands out by capturing the essence of a specific flower rather than relying on abstract or complex names, which were also popular in perfumery at the time. Its simplicity and directness would have been refreshing and appealing to women seeking authenticity and natural beauty in their fragrances.
Interpreting the word "Les Lilas," one would envision clusters of lilac blossoms, their soft petals and sweet aroma. It conveys a sense of purity, gentleness, and the ephemeral beauty of spring. In the context of "Les Lilas de Corday," a perfume launched in 1931, the name would have resonated deeply with its intended audience, encapsulating the charm and elegance of a bygone era while remaining relevant and timeless.
Lilac, with its delicate yet intoxicating fragrance, was one of the most beloved floral scents of the 19th and 20th centuries. The essence of lilac evokes the fleeting beauty of spring, when its blossoms unfurl in soft pastel hues, releasing their airy, powdery, and subtly spicy aroma into the breeze. As perfumers sought to capture the ephemeral charm of lilac, fragrance compositions evolved from simple floral waters to more complex blends, interwoven with deeper, animalic facets to lend richness and longevity. In 1931, Corday introduced an updated interpretation of lilac, drawing upon both traditional natural extracts and the latest advances in synthetic aromachemistry to create a multi-dimensional and long-lasting fragrance.
Early perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias documented lilac-based formulas, often relying on infusions, tinctures, and absolutes from other florals, as lilac itself was notoriously difficult to extract. Blends mimicking the scent were crafted from a combination of natural and synthetic materials, each contributing a different facet of the flower’s complex aroma. Benzyl acetate, with its sweet, jasmine-like character, provided a smooth and luminous floralcy that enhanced lilac’s natural freshness. Hyacinthine, a molecule evoking the cool, waxy scent of spring hyacinths, reinforced the dewy, green aspects of the bloom. Terpineol, widely recognized as one of the primary components of lilac scent, imparted a soft, woody-floral nuance, creating the impression of lilac petals warmed by sunlight. Aldehyde phenylacetic added a slightly honeyed, almond-like sweetness, reminiscent of pollen-dusted blossoms.
As the 19th century gave way to the 20th, new synthetic discoveries allowed perfumers to refine their compositions further, introducing greater depth and stability to floral accords. Amyl heptine carbonate lent a crisp, pear-like fruitiness that subtly brightened the floral bouquet, enhancing lilac’s fresh, youthful quality. Iso-eugenol, derived from clove, added a gentle, spicy warmth, echoing the natural complexity of lilac’s scent. Geraniol, found in roses and other flowers, contributed a rosy brightness, reinforcing the floral heart of the composition. Cyclosia, a synthetic molecule designed to enhance floral accords, imparted a soft, powdery touch, smoothing the transitions between notes. “Floranol,” another breakthrough in floral chemistry, was specifically created to evoke the fresh, petal-like quality of blooming lilac, ensuring that the fragrance maintained a vibrant, true-to-nature character from its opening to its dry down.
Corday’s approach to Lilas was a marriage of tradition and innovation. While the fragrance honored the romantic, nostalgic allure of classic lilac perfumes, it also embraced modern perfumery techniques to create an interpretation that was more refined, longer-lasting, and multi-faceted. By blending time-honored floral materials with cutting-edge synthetics, Corday ensured that Lilas remained both an homage to the past and a fresh, contemporary expression of springtime’s most cherished blossom.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women with a dominant lilac note.
- Top notes: benzyl acetate, Portugal orange, Moroccan cassie, Sicilian citron, Calabrian bergamot, Dutch lilac, hyacinthine, terpineol, aldehyde phenylacetic, amyl heptine carbonate
- Middle notes: iso-eugenol, geraniol, cyclosia, Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine absolute, Indian tuberose, Tunisian orange blossom, Manila ylang ylang, Grasse rose absolute, aubepine, Grasse reseda, "Floranal"
- Base notes: Colombian tolu balsam, balsam of Peru, sumbul, vanillin, Sumatran styrax, heliotropin, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, coumarin, ambergris, "grisambrene"
Scent Profile:
Les Lilas by Corday is a delicate yet richly evocative floral fragrance, built around the enchanting scent of lilac. It captures the ephemeral beauty of springtime, when lilac blossoms unfurl their pastel petals, releasing their soft, powdery, and slightly spicy aroma into the air. The fragrance is a harmonious blend of natural and synthetic components, each chosen to enhance the lilac’s dreamy, romantic character while adding depth and complexity.
The first impression is bright and shimmering, as citrus and floral notes weave together in an uplifting overture. Benzyl acetate, known for its light, jasmine-like sweetness, provides a delicate floral backdrop that melds seamlessly with the zest of Portugal orange. This particular variety of orange is prized for its deep, sun-drenched aroma, lending a vibrant juiciness that complements the Moroccan cassie—a note reminiscent of warm, honeyed mimosa with a hint of powdery spice. Sicilian citron and Calabrian bergamot add a refined crispness, their tart and slightly floral facets imparting a radiant freshness.
Dutch lilac, cultivated for its exceptionally pure and slightly green aroma, forms the heart of the introduction, its dewy petals intertwined with hyacinthine, a note that brings forth the cool, waxy sweetness of early spring flowers. Terpineol, commonly associated with lilac and lilac-like fragrances, enhances the impression of crushed lilac blossoms, while aldehyde phenylacetic introduces a touch of honeyed warmth. Amyl heptine carbonate, with its subtle fruity-pear undertone, rounds out the top notes, ensuring a soft yet effervescent start.
As the fragrance unfolds, a complex bouquet emerges, weaving together the intoxicating richness of some of the world’s most precious floral ingredients. Iso-eugenol and geraniol bring a spicy, rosy warmth, reinforcing the lilac’s natural depth. Cyclosia, a delicate synthetic note, accentuates the fresh, green facets of the florals, adding a luminous quality. The soft, buttery orris from Florence lends a powdery elegance, its earthy sweetness grounding the composition. Grasse jasmine absolute, hand-harvested in the perfume capital of the world, infuses the fragrance with a narcotic floral opulence, while Indian tuberose intensifies its creamy, velvety allure.
Tunisian orange blossom adds a bright, almost effervescent floral sparkle, intertwining with the exotic sensuality of Manila ylang ylang, known for its rich, custard-like sweetness tinged with a hint of banana and spice. Grasse rose absolute contributes a deep, honeyed floralcy, while aubepine—hawthorn blossom—introduces an almond-like softness, further enriched by Grasse reseda’s fresh, green floral notes. The inclusion of “Floranal,” a synthetic floral molecule, enhances the illusion of fresh lilac blooms, adding to the scent’s ethereal quality.
The base notes provide a warm and sensual foundation, balancing the fragrance’s floral intensity with richness and depth. Colombian tolu balsam and balsam of Peru, with their resinous, vanilla-like warmth, lend a golden sweetness that melds seamlessly with the creamy, smoky facets of Sumatran styrax. Sumbul, an exotic musk-root, introduces a faintly herbal, slightly animalic nuance that hints at vintage elegance.
Vanillin, a classic perfumery staple, brings a familiar, comforting sweetness, softened further by heliotropin’s powdery almond-like aroma. The animalic notes of Tibetan musk and Abyssinian civet add depth and sensuality, their natural warmth blending with the smooth, slightly smoky character of ambergris and “grisambrene,” a refined synthetic ambergris note that enhances longevity. Coumarin, with its characteristic hay-like sweetness, ties the base together, ensuring a soft, lingering dry down that feels both nostalgic and sophisticated.
Les Lilas is a testament to the art of floral perfumery, masterfully balancing the freshness of lilac with the richness of fine florals, creamy resins, and sensual musks. It is an olfactory ode to spring’s most delicate bloom, preserving its fleeting beauty in an elegant and enduring composition.
Bottles:
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Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1951.
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