Corday & Jovoy Perfumes: Le Pois de Senteur by Corday c1931

In 1931, the launch of "Pois de Senteur de Corday" occurred during a period characterized by a return to simpler, more natural fragrances. This era marked a shift away from the complex, opulent perfumes of the 1920s, aligning instead with the elegance and purity reminiscent of the Victorian era's soliflore (single flower) perfumes. This trend was partly a response to the turbulent times following the Wall Street Crash of 1929, which led to the Great Depression. As people sought comfort and stability, there was a nostalgic return to simpler, more familiar scents.

"Pois de Senteur," which translates to "Sweet Pea" in English, is an excellent name for a perfume due to several reasons. The name evokes the delicate, fresh, and sweet fragrance of the sweet pea flower. This flower is associated with the innocence, grace, and purity often celebrated in Victorian floral symbolism. The imagery of blooming sweet peas can conjure up feelings of nostalgia, tranquility, and romanticism. The French name "Pois de Senteur" adds an element of sophistication and elegance, distinguishing it from more straightforward English names. It conveys a sense of refinement and exclusivity that would appeal to women seeking an air of grace and class. Women of the early 20th century were familiar with the language of flowers, a popular Victorian practice where different flowers held specific meanings. Sweet pea flowers symbolized delicate pleasure and lasting friendship, making the name resonate emotionally and culturally.

Women in the 1930s, living through economic hardship, would likely appreciate the nostalgic and simple beauty of "Pois de Senteur." The perfume would evoke memories of a more stable and refined past, offering a sense of comfort and elegance amid the uncertainty of the Great Depression. The delicate and natural scent would also appeal to the growing desire for authenticity and simplicity in daily life, countering the opulence of the previous decade.

The phrase "Pois de Senteur" would be interpreted as elegant simplicity, suggesting a return to natural beauty and simplicity, aligning with contemporary trends. The French name adds a touch of European sophistication, appealing to the fashion-conscious woman. Given the Victorian fascination with floral symbolism, "Pois de Senteur" would evoke themes of delicate pleasure and graceful femininity.

The word "sweet pea" evokes innocence and freshness. Sweet peas are often associated with fresh, spring-like qualities, suggesting renewal and purity. Their delicate appearance and fragrance can conjure romantic and tender emotions. For many, sweet peas are reminiscent of childhood gardens and simpler times, evoking a sense of nostalgia.

Pois de Senteur, or Sweet Pea, was a beloved floral fragrance throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, evoking the delicate, pastel-hued blossoms that symbolized grace, pleasure, and youthful romance. The flower’s naturally soft, airy scent, which blends elements of rose, orange blossom, and violet, made it a popular note in fine perfumery. Inspired by its enduring charm, Corday introduced an updated interpretation of Pois de Senteur in 1931, reimagining the fragrance in a more sophisticated and modern composition.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, perfumers relied on natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures to capture the essence of sweet pea and its supporting floral bouquet. These ingredients were painstakingly derived from flowers, resins, and animalic sources, creating rich, multi-dimensional scents with natural complexity. However, as the century progressed and scientific advancements in chemistry emerged, perfumers began incorporating newly discovered synthetics that enhanced longevity, intensity, and olfactory nuance.

Among these innovations, benzylideneacetone added a warm, slightly woody undertone that deepened the floral freshness of sweet pea. Amyl heptine carbonate introduced a delicate fruity-pear facet, mirroring the nectar-like sweetness of the blossoms. Hydroxycitronellal, a key component in lily of the valley accords, contributed a dewy, green freshness that heightened the fragrance’s airy quality. Hyacinthine, evocative of crisp spring flowers, provided a cool, slightly spicy floral edge. Hydrocinnamic aldehyde added a creamy warmth, smoothing the floral bouquet, while phenyl ethyl phenylacetate imparted a honeyed richness, accentuating the romantic softness of the composition. Benzyl propionate contributed a subtle, fruity-floral nuance, and terpineol, commonly found in lilac and pine, introduced a gentle green brightness that lifted the entire fragrance.

Corday’s approach to Pois de Senteur reflected the evolving artistry of perfumery, blending time-honored natural ingredients with cutting-edge synthetics to create a refined, long-lasting scent. This updated version paid homage to the delicate beauty of sweet peas while offering an elegant complexity suited to the sophisticated tastes of modern women.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women with a dominant sweet pea note.

Top notes: hydroxycitronellal, hyacinthine, French Guinea orange, Calabrian bergamot, benzylideneacetone, amyl heptine carbonate
Middle notes: hydrocinnamic aldehyde, phenyl ethyl phenylacetate, benzyl propionate, terpineol, eglantine, Portuguese tuberose, Grasse rose absolute, Tunisian orange blossom, ionone, Grasse jasmine absolute, methyl nonyl ketone
Base notes: Indian musk ambrette, isobutyl benzoate, vanillin, Sumatran styrax, coumarin, Tibetan musk, heliotropin, Abyssinian civet, Colombian tolu, balsam of Peru, Grecian mastic, Siamese benzoin

Scent Profile:

Pois de Senteur by Corday is a fragrance that captures the delicate yet intoxicating aroma of sweet peas in full bloom, wrapped in a symphony of luminous florals, creamy woods, and rich balsamic resins. Each ingredient is carefully chosen to heighten the fragrance’s tender charm while lending depth and complexity.

The fragrance opens with a breath of hydroxycitronellal, a note that mimics the fresh, airy green facets of lily of the valley, giving an immediate impression of dewy petals and tender foliage. Hyacinthine follows, a sharp yet sweet floral note evoking the crisp, cool fragrance of hyacinths in early spring. The citrus elements sparkle—French Guinea orange, with its vibrant yet slightly bitter zest, lends a golden effervescence, while Calabrian bergamot, grown in the sun-drenched groves of Italy, offers a refined and slightly floral citrus brightness. Benzylideneacetone introduces an unexpected contrast, its warm, slightly woody undertone adding a soft golden glow. Amyl heptine carbonate, a lesser-known but intriguing note, adds a fruity-pear nuance, enhancing the sweet pea’s natural nectar-like delicacy.

As the fragrance deepens into its heart, a cascade of florals takes center stage. Hydrocinnamic aldehyde infuses the composition with a smooth, sweetly spicy warmth, amplifying the natural radiance of the blossoms. Phenyl ethyl phenylacetate, reminiscent of honeyed roses, works in harmony with benzyl propionate, whose fruity-floral facets enhance the lusciousness of the bouquet. Terpineol, often found in lilac and pine, adds a fresh, slightly balsamic green touch that tempers the intensity of the flowers, allowing the sweet pea to retain its youthful vibrancy.

Eglantine, also known as wild rose, emerges with a delicate, tea-like sweetness, complementing the more opulent florals that follow. Portuguese tuberose, cultivated in the warm Mediterranean climate, reveals its narcotic creaminess, a heady presence softened by the tender embrace of Grasse rose absolute, one of the most exquisite and velvety rose essences in the world. The Tunisian orange blossom lends a luminous, honeyed glow, its warmth further enriched by the velvety depth of Grasse jasmine absolute, an icon of French perfumery. Ionone, with its powdery violet facets, adds an ethereal touch, while methyl nonyl ketone brings a fruity-green crispness that keeps the floral heart fresh and radiant.

As the fragrance settles into its base, it takes on an intoxicating richness. Indian musk ambrette, with its slightly fruity, wine-like warmth, enhances the soft sensuality of the blend. Isobutyl benzoate imparts a creamy, balsamic undertone, seamlessly blending with the vanillic sweetness of vanillin. Sumatran styrax and balsam of Peru contribute a resinous depth, their smoky, caramel-like nuances creating a warm and enveloping embrace. Coumarin, reminiscent of freshly mown hay, adds a whisper of sweetness, while Tibetan musk brings a deep, animalic warmth that lingers on the skin.

Heliotropin introduces a soft almond-like creaminess, evoking the scent of powdery blossoms basking in the sun. Abyssinian civet, rare and luxurious, lends an exotic muskiness that enhances the floral heart’s sensuality. Colombian tolu balsam, with its warm, ambered richness, merges with the honeyed, slightly green quality of Grecian mastic, adding a final touch of intrigue. Siamese benzoin, with its resinous, vanillic warmth, rounds out the fragrance, leaving a trail of soft, powdery sweetness that lingers like a cherished memory.

Pois de Senteur is a fragrance that embodies the delicate, poetic beauty of sweet peas while weaving in layers of complexity and depth. It is a composition that feels both ethereal and intimate, evoking the freshness of a blooming garden at dawn and the tender embrace of floral-infused silks at twilight.