Rusé by Corday c1966

Rusé by Corday, launched in 1966, is a fragrance that carried an air of sophistication and allure, aptly named to reflect the complexity and intrigue of its composition. The word “Rusé” is derived from French, where it means "cunning," "foxy" or "sly," often evoking a sense of cleverness or playful mystery. Pronounced "roo-zay", it suggests someone who possesses a certain charm and subtlety—perhaps even a hint of mischief. In layman's terms, you could think of the word as invoking someone who is both clever and seductive, someone who moves through life with a certain grace and intelligence that draws others in without them fully realizing it.

When this fragrance debuted in the mid-1960s, the world was in the midst of significant social and cultural change. The post-World War II era had given way to the optimistic, fast-paced 1960s, a time of radical transformation in music, fashion, and social norms. Women were embracing greater independence, with the feminist movement gaining momentum and a new wave of fashion icons like Twiggy and Brigitte Bardot embodying bold, new expressions of femininity. The "mod" style, characterized by clean lines, geometric shapes, and daring color choices, was in full swing, as was a growing interest in youth culture and self-expression. In contrast to the elegant but restrained femininity of the 1950s, the 1960s were about breaking boundaries—whether in fashion, music, or attitudes.

Given this context, Rusé would have been an evocative choice of name for a fragrance targeted at women during this time. The word itself—implying something a little elusive, a little sly—likely resonated with the modern woman of the 1960s, who was asserting her autonomy and embracing a new sense of power and agency. The perfume's name would have felt contemporary, aligned with the era's emphasis on playfulness, self-assurance, and a certain enigmatic charm that women of the time were increasingly embracing. It was a name that suggested both sophistication and intrigue—perfect for a fragrance that combined freshness with depth, floral notes with earthy richness, and an underlying complexity.

The emotions evoked by the name Rusé are those of a woman who is confident, elusive, and full of quiet intensity. It conjures images of a woman who is not easily understood, whose presence lingers in the air like a soft mystery. She is not overtly bold, but there’s something undeniably magnetic about her, a sense of elegance mixed with an air of knowingness. For the woman of the 1960s, Rusé would have spoken to a desire for refinement, but also a willingness to subvert expectations. It was a fragrance that could wear as a sophisticated accessory to a chic cocktail dress, but also one that could evoke the casual, independent spirit of the day, perhaps worn with a mod miniskirt or a tailored pantsuit.

As for how the name would be interpreted in scent, Rusé would represent a fragrance that is both clear and complex, an intricate blend of florals and greens with an underlying earthiness. The opening zesty citrus notes, the verdant freshness, and the floral heart would all align with the cleverness and charm suggested by the name. The fragrance's base, with its sensual earthy notes like vetiver, oakmoss, and patchouli, would reflect the deeper, more mysterious side of the woman it represents—someone who has secrets, whose personality reveals itself in layers. The name Rusé evokes a scent that is not immediately obvious, but one that unfolds over time, much like the woman it is meant to represent.

In the broader context of the 1960s fragrance market, Rusé both aligned with and distinguished itself from contemporary trends. The 1960s saw a surge in floral fragrances, but these were often paired with green notes or more structured chypre bases, creating a refined yet bold character. Rusé fits comfortably within this trend, but its floral-green chypre composition, with its sharp, fresh opening and deeper, more complex base, also felt innovative. The scent was not purely about sweetness or softness—there was an edge to it, a sharper green accord that suggested independence and strength. This placed Rusé in a more nuanced space than many of the more straightforward florals and aldehydic perfumes that dominated the earlier part of the decade, giving it an almost intellectual sophistication that spoke to the changing role of women in society at the time.

In summary, Corday's choice of the name Rusé was both a reflection of and a response to the cultural moment in which it was released. The 1960s were a time of rapid change, and Rusé encapsulated that dynamic mix of elegance and self-assuredness, playfulness and mystery, that defined the era. The fragrance itself was a perfect companion to the modern, independent woman—someone who was not only defining her own femininity but doing so with an unmistakable sense of wit and confidence.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral green chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Sicilian lemon, green accord, Paraguayan petitgrain, Calabrian bergamot, Dutch daffodil, Italian neroli
• Middle notes: Indian carnation absolute, Dutch hyacinth, Grasse rose absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, French geranium, Madagascan verbena, Alpine lily of the valley, mimosa, Italian iris
• Base notes: Haitian vetiver, Maltese labdanum, leather, Persian galbanum essence, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Ethiopian civet, Indonesian patchouli, Florentine orris root, Mysore sandalwood, Siamese benzoin, Peru balsam

Scent Profile:

In Rusé by Corday, every note builds upon the other like a symphony, unfolding in layers of freshness, floral complexity, and sensual depth. As the fragrance opens, you are first greeted by the crisp, zesty brightness of Sicilian lemon. The lemons from Sicily are renowned for their intense, tangy scent, balanced by a sweet, almost floral undertone, imparting a radiant, invigorating burst of citrus that immediately energizes the senses. This is immediately tempered by the green accord, which evokes the scent of freshly cut grass and dewy leaves, bringing a verdant, earthy freshness that grounds the citrus and introduces a natural, garden-like feel to the composition. 

The Paraguayan petitgrain adds a unique complexity—sharp, citrusy, yet slightly bitter, with a green, herbal quality that suggests the freshly crushed leaves of the orange tree. The Calabrian bergamot follows with its familiar, slightly floral, citrusy scent that is both zesty and warm, providing a soft, aromatic brightness that complements the Sicilian lemon with its slightly spicy, sweeter edge. Dutch daffodil, a note not often found in perfumery, offers a green, slightly grassy scent with hints of pepper, evoking the early spring air when flowers begin to bloom. The delicate, uplifting Italian neroli enhances the opening with its bright, sweet orange blossom scent, honeyed yet fresh, a hallmark of Italian-grown neroli, which is prized for its purity and balance of citrus freshness with floral warmth.

As the fragrance evolves into the heart, Indian carnation absolute steps forward, filling the space with its spicy, clove-like scent that carries a rich, peppery warmth, lifting the floral heart with its complex, aromatic nature. The Dutch hyacinth brings a creamy floral sweetness, almost suffocating in its richness, with a green, watery freshness that resembles the scent of the delicate flower in full bloom. The floral complexity deepens with Grasse rose absolute, offering a rich, velvety warmth. The Grasse roses, from the heart of the French perfume capital, are famed for their full-bodied, rich fragrance—sweet and slightly spicy, they impart a luxurious depth to the composition. Grasse jasmine absolute, one of the most beloved and prized floral ingredients in perfumery, lends a heady, sensual warmth to the bouquet, its creamy, opulent aroma evoking a lush, balmy evening in the South of France. 

French geranium provides a slightly herbal, sharp green edge that offsets the more floral elements, with its fresh, almost metallic scent adding balance and structure to the fragrance. The Madagascan verbena injects a tangy, lemony freshness, giving the fragrance an uplifting, zesty character that makes the floral heart feel even more radiant. Alpine lily of the valley adds a cool, almost crystalline quality, its fresh, green floral scent evoking the purity of mountain air, while mimosa, with its soft, powdery sweetness, adds a gentle floral veil, evoking sunshine and springtime. Italian iris, known for its powdery elegance, contributes a subtle, elegant woodiness and a violet-like sweetness, bringing a refined, floral depth to the heart of the composition.

The base of Rusé is where the true complexity of the fragrance shines, as earthy, woody, and sensual notes emerge. Haitian vetiver provides a smoky, woody depth that is both dry and earthy, with a grassy undertone. The vetiver from Haiti is known for its slightly sweeter, less harsh quality compared to other origins, making it a favorite in perfumery for its smooth yet distinct earthiness. Maltese labdanum contributes a rich, resinous warmth, with its sweet, balsamic scent evoking the rugged landscape of Malta. It has a smoky, amber-like depth that enriches the base with its mysterious, almost animalic character. 

Leather lends a smooth, slightly animalic warmth to the fragrance, with its rich, deep aroma evoking the scent of worn leather, adding a tactile richness that grounds the entire composition. Persian galbanum essence, a note prized for its unique, bitter green aroma, introduces a sharp, almost pine-like freshness that cuts through the fragrance, providing a crisp, green edge to balance the warmer, sweeter elements. Yugoslavian oakmoss, often associated with the chypre family, gives the fragrance its classic earthy, mossy undertone. Oakmoss from the Balkans is particularly known for its deep, forest-like scent, with an almost leathery, damp quality that brings both depth and a slightly woody, smoky richness. 

Ethiopian civet adds an animalic, musky warmth, enhancing the fragrance with its subtle, sensual richness. Indonesian patchouli provides a woody, slightly sweet, earthy foundation, its deep, resinous scent adding complexity and a sense of mystery to the base. The sweet, powdery warmth of Florentine orris root, with its delicate, violet-like aroma, adds a refined, elegant finish to the fragrance, while Mysore sandalwood lends a creamy, smooth woodiness, its luxurious aroma offering a soft, creamy foundation that lingers. Siamese benzoin offers a sweet, balsamic depth with hints of vanilla, further enriching the base with its warm, amber-like glow, while Peru balsam adds a resinous, sweet warmth that deepens the fragrance, rounding out the composition with its full, comforting richness.

Rusé by Corday is an expertly crafted chypre that balances floral delicacy with green freshness and earthy warmth. Its bright citrus opening and fresh florals unfold into a heart of heady, exotic blooms, before settling into a base that exudes depth, sensuality, and sophistication. The result is a timeless fragrance that feels both lush and grounded, effortlessly evoking an air of elegance and mystery.

Bottles:

Available as an eau de toilette.

3 oz eau de toilette, photo by ebay seller saiholdings

photo by ventesuroffres

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Click Here to Find Ruse Perfume by Corday on ebay